Saturday, October 31, 2026

The Tiger's Nest is Bhutan's most iconic sacred monastery, and a visit to it was to be the culmination and high point of our trip.  In the eighth century, a consort of Buddha turned  into a tiger and flew a guru to this site where he meditated in a cave for three years, three months, and three days, subduing the local demons.  He also prophesized that a monastery would be established on the site, and in the 17th century, it was built over the cave.  The Tiger's Nest clings to the side of a mountain at about 10,000 feet elevation.  Hiking the steep trail from the valley takes about an hour to the cafe with a good view of the monastery and another hour to the Tiger's Nest itself.


We were supposed to make the climb on Friday, but it rained all day and the clouds had settled on the mountain, blocking the view completely.  Our guides thought the trail would be too dangerous for us.  On Saturday, with an afternoon departure from Bhutan scheudled, four of us got up at 6:00 AM to try for at least the first half of the climb.  The trail was steep and muddy and no fun, not to mention raining for the the last twenty minutes or so.  We got to the cafe but could see nothing.  Our guide insisted that we should wait for half an hour and it might clear up.  We didn't think that would happen, so we took this picture of the four hardy women and two guides with the cloud covered mountain in the background.



 



It never really cleared up but in twenty five minutes, the rain stopped and the clouds parted for a few minutes.  So we got a glimpse of the view we had come to see, and then hiked back down the steep muddy trail.  Those two white specks in the circle where the clouds parted is the Tiger's Nest











Our Plan B for Friday was a visit to the National Museum of Bhutan.  Like the museum we had visited in Trongsa, the museum is located in the watchtower of the local Dzong (citadel) with exhibits on all seven levels.  











After a quick excursion in town for shopping and Western food, we went to a place where they made incredible sand mandalas.  This man, a monk of course, is working on an intricate mandala and when it is completed, the colored sand will be swept into the middle, symbolizing that nothing in this life is permanent.  After watching him, we all had the chance to create our own mandalas ... and then sweep them away.

We have seen several interesting crafts here in Bhutan including weaving, making clothes from nettle, and organic dyeing using various herbs and flowers.  We also visited a tea plantation, first walking through the garden with the plants and then watching how the women process the plants into tea.  Apparently, tea was not native to Bhutan, but they have imported it from Assam and a women's cooperative has initiated tea production.

One of the more interesting things we have seen is an archery competition.  Archery is very popular here and is played as a team sport.  Two small targets are set up several hundred yards away from each other.  The teams alternate shooting first from one side and then the other.  If anyone even hits the target, they all stop and do a dance and chant.









The National Museum, in addition to displays of art, stamps, and military dress and weapons, had a wall with quotes from Buddha.  Two of my favorites:


I like the sentiment, but I have grave doubts about the astronomy.


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