Marrakech

Kasey and John left me in Fez to take a train to Marrakech on Monday, and they went back up to Ifrane.  Morocco is sorely lacking in infrastructure, and transportation is particularly bad.  The French left them a train system and that's it.  No intercity flights although the distances are quite long.  Some buses.  The primary way to travel between cities is by grand taxis - mid-size old Mercedes sedans.  The driver will not leave until he has two passengers in the front and four in the back.  If you want more room, you have to pay for another seat.

Within cities, petit taxis are quite cheap.  You have to use them because there are very few bus routes.  When I left my hotel in Fez for the train station, I asked how much the taxi should be.  They told me six or seven dirhams but the taxi would have a meter.  I didn't see a meter in the taxi so I asked the driver who did not understand me.  Right.  There's not a taxi driver in the world who does not know the word "meter."  We got to the train station, which was less than a mile away, and he turned and said to me, "twenty dirhams."  I laughed and said, no.  Without batting an eyelash, he said, "ok, five."  He wasn't the least bit embarrassed.  Nothing ventured, nothing gained.

 So I took an eight hour train ride - the longest in my life as far as I can remember.  Kasey told me to go first class - a good move.  It was okay, not great.

Marrakesh is the red city.  Its exterior walls are a lovely terra cotta red.  The medina is huge and endlessly confusing.  I walk one block, retrace my steps, and can't find my way back.  The streets are narrow, winding, and crowded, with shops everywhere.  The merchandise is all similar, so even when I think I recognize something, I'm not sure.

The traditional inns are called riads.  They are small - no more than ten rooms -with personal attention. You walk down a narrow alley that you would not walk down in the US, knock on a nondescript door, and walk into a beautiful house built around a central courtyard.  I am staying at the Riad Idra which is exquisite.

The courtyard

Rooftop terrace where it has been warm enough to sit this week

I took a tour of the highlights of Marrakesh yesterday and have spent hours wandering around lost.  It is a pleasure to come home to my riad where I am sitting right now in the library in front of the fireplace.